Overlock seams and what they mean for comfort

Short answer: What is an overlock seam? It is a seam that binds the fabric edge with several threads and trims it at the same time, so the edge does not fray. The seam gives a little, which helps in stretch fabric. Whether it feels comfortable depends on the thread and where it lies against the skin.

What is an overlock seam in plain terms

Overlock is a way of sewing where threads are looped around the fabric edge while the machine trims the edge even. That gives a closed edge and a seam that can give a little in fabric with stretch. You know it from the inside of many T-shirts and vests.

How to spot an overlock seam

Turn the garment inside out and look at the seam. An overlock seam has small loops of thread along the edge, and the edge is gathered into one line. If the seam is flat and smooth with two rows of stitches side by side, it is another type. You do not need to choose by seam type, but knowing the difference helps.

Overlock and comfort against the skin

How a seam feels does not depend on seam type alone. Seams laid flat press less on the skin, and soft thread rubs less. When you look for comfort in the range for women, it is worth feeling the seams on the inside, not only the fabric itself.

Stretch in the seam

In stretch clothing the seam has to follow the fabric. Overlock can stretch a little because the thread loops give way when the fabric moves. A stiff seam in stretch fabric can instead snap or pull, so tug gently on the seam in both directions before you wear the piece.

When a seam chafes

If a seam chafes, try turning the garment inside out before you put it on, or pick a piece with a flatter seam next time. If it happens repeatedly in the same place, the seam often sits right over a bone or in a joint movement. If it is more than ordinary rubbing, talk to your doctor.

Seams in socks

The toe seam in socks lies against the skin all day. That is why it is worth feeling how it sits across the toes. Put the sock on and walk around a little. That goes for socks for women too, where a seam that presses quickly becomes annoying.

Care so the seam lasts

Wash clothes inside out so the seams do not rub against other items in the machine, and choose a gentle program. Do not pull hard on a wet seam, since it can give way. Cut loose threads off with small scissors and never pull them out, because that can unpick the seam.

Seams in tops and other close fitting clothes

In close fitting clothes the seams sit at the shoulders, sides and under the arms, where the skin moves a lot. That is exactly where a flat or soft seam makes a difference. When you look at bamboo tops for women, feel the seams and try lifting your arms.

Frequently asked questions

What is an overlock seam, and is it the same as a plain hem?

Overlock binds the edge with several threads, trims it and closes it, while a plain hem just folds the edge and stitches it down. They look similar from outside but behave differently.

Can an overlock seam fray?

It is made to prevent fraying, but if you pull on a loose thread the seam can come apart. Cut loose ends off instead of pulling them, and check the seam after washing.

Are flat seams more comfortable?

Often yes, because they sit less against the skin. It also depends on where the seam lies and on your skin, so feel carefully when you try the clothes on.

You can find the full range at Copenhagen Bamboo.