How a fibre becomes a yarn

Short answer: Short fibres are laid parallel and twisted together into a yarn, and the twist is what gives it strength. The more even the twist, the smoother the fabric that is later knitted from the yarn.

The fibres must first lie parallel

Before anything can be twisted, the loose fibres must be straightened so they lie side by side. This is done by combing and drawing them through machines that gradually make the bundle thinner and more even. Fibres lying every which way give a yarn with thick and thin spots. That is why this preparation matters so much.

Twist holds the yarn together

Without twist, the fibres would slide apart at the slightest pull. When the bundle is turned, the fibres press against each other and friction locks them in place. The result is a yarn that can be knitted and worn. This is the kind of yarn used in bamboo socks, where the fabric must handle pulling and rubbing every day.

Hard or soft twist

A hard twisted yarn is strong but feels rougher. A soft twisted yarn feels soft but is more likely to pill, because fibres pull out of the surface more easily. The maker picks the balance to suit the purpose. For clothing worn close to the skin, such as a bamboo bra, softness matters, but the yarn must still last.

The thickness of the yarn

Thickness is given as a number showing how many metres of yarn weigh one gram. A high number means a thin yarn, a low number a thick one. This number decides how thin and light the fabric can be. You can see the difference in women's bamboo joggers, where the fabric is heavier than in underwear.

Single and plied yarn

A single yarn is one twisted strand. Twist two singles together and you get a plied yarn, which is stronger and more even. Plied yarn is used where the fabric must take a lot of wear or where the surface should be extra smooth. Single yarn gives a lighter, softer fabric. Both have their place, depending on the garment.

Why evenness matters

If the yarn switches between thick and thin sections, it shows in the fabric as stripes or clouds. Thin spots are also weaker and wear faster. An even yarn gives a calm fabric that feels the same all over and holds its shape better. That is why spinners check the yarn carefully before it goes to knitting.

What you can feel yourself

You cannot easily see the twist in a finished garment, but you can feel it. Fabric from soft twisted yarn feels light and supple. Fabric from harder twisted yarn feels firmer and handles more wear. Wash at a low temperature and avoid needless rubbing, and the surface will stay neat for longer.

From yarn to fabric

Once the yarn is ready, it is wound onto cones and sent to the knitter. There it becomes loops, and the loops become fabric. The yarn's qualities follow all the way: strength, softness and thickness. Good fabric starts with good yarn, and the choices made at the spinner are felt every time you wear the garment.

Frequently asked questions

What do single and plied yarn mean

A plied yarn is two single yarns twisted together, which makes it stronger and more even. Single yarn is lighter and gives a softer fabric.

Does more twist make the fabric stronger

Up to a point. Too much twist makes the yarn stiff and brittle, so the maker has to find the right balance for the purpose.

Can you see the twist

Yes, pull a thread out of a seam and hold it up to the light. You will see how the fibres wrap around each other in a spiral.