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How to stitch a pocket back on

Short answer: A pocket that has come loose at the corner is sewn back from the inside with small, tight stitches along the original seam. Reinforce both corners, because that is where the strain sits. It takes about twenty minutes, and the pocket then holds as well as the rest of the sweatshirt.

The corners carry the load

When you put your hand in the pocket, you pull on the corners, not the middle. Every time a phone, keys or hands go in, the force gathers at the two outer points of the seam. That is why they give way first, also on a bamboo sweatshirt for women. The rest of the seam is usually intact.

What you need

You need a fine sewing needle, thread matching the fabric, scissors and a few pins. Polyester thread is a good choice because it gives a little and handles many washes. Choose the thinnest needle you can, so it slides between the loops of the knit without pushing them apart. A thimble is nice to have but not essential.

Turn the sweatshirt and pin the pocket

Turn the sweatshirt inside out so you work on the back of the seam and the stitches stay hidden. Place the pocket so its edges line up exactly with the old seam, and pin across it. Check from the outside that the pocket sits straight before you start. A crooked start gives a pocket that bulges or pulls the fabric.

Sew along the old seam

Follow the holes already in the fabric so you do not make new ones. The old needle holes show exactly where the seam was, and using them avoids weakening the knit. This applies to everything in women's clothing. Start a couple of centimetres into the intact part of the seam, so the join between old and new is strong.

Use a stitch that can stretch

Sweat fabric gives, and a straight seam can snap the first time you pull on the pocket. Use a backstitch instead, where each new stitch starts in the middle of the last one. It looks like a machine seam and moves with the fabric. Keep the stitches at two to three millimetres so the force spreads over many points.

Reinforce with a triangle

Sew a small triangle of stitches in each corner so the force spreads over more fabric. The triangle should be about half a centimetre per side and sit right out in the corner. The same idea is used on stressed seams in the most popular styles for women. Go round the triangle twice so it is clearly stronger than the rest.

Secure the thread properly

Finish with three or four stitches on top of each other on the inside, and pull the thread under a few stitches before you cut it. A loose end is the most common reason a repair comes undone. Cut close to the fabric but not right at the knot. The end then lies flat and cannot work its way out in the wash.

Washing and care afterwards

Wash the sweatshirt as usual at thirty degrees, ideally inside out. For the first few washes you can put it in a laundry bag so the pocket does not catch on other clothes. Dry it flat or on a hanger. Avoid heavy items in the pocket, and both the new and old seam will last for years.

Frequently asked questions

How long does it take

About twenty minutes by hand for an ordinary pocket, including the time to pin it and secure the thread at both ends.

Can you see the repair

Only if the thread is a different colour from the original. With matching thread and small stitches on the inside, the repair is almost invisible from the outside.

Why did the pocket come loose

Because the corners were sewn with only a few stitches in production. Once reinforced with a triangle, the pocket is often stronger than before.

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