Needle and thread, what to choose

Short answer: Choose a needle slightly finer than the thread allows and a thread slightly finer than the fabric itself. That way the repair is strong without pulling the fabric out of shape, and it blends better into the garment afterwards.

The needle must suit the fabric

A needle that is too thick makes holes in thin knits, while one that is too fine cannot get through thick sweat fabric. If you feel resistance or see small holes around the stitches, the needle is wrong. For most everyday garments a medium needle is right. That also goes for bamboo socks for men, where the fabric is dense and stretchy.

Thread should be weaker than the fabric

If something breaks again, it is better that it is the thread and not the fabric. Thread stronger than the fabric can cut into the loops and make a new hole beside the old one. A slightly weaker thread gives first and is easy to replace. The same applies to bamboo joggers for men.

Polyester or cotton

Polyester thread is stronger and stretches a little, while cotton thread is softer but weaker. The slight stretch in polyester lets the seam move with the fabric. Cotton can snap when a knit is stretched. For knits like bamboo T-shirts for men, polyester is the safe choice for most repairs.

The eye of the needle makes work easier

A large eye is easy to thread, especially in poor light or with tired eyes. A small eye suits fine thread but can be fiddly. If threading is hard, cut the end at an angle with sharp scissors and moisten it slightly. A needle threader is a small tool that makes it even easier and takes up almost no space.

Sharp or ballpoint

Needles come with a sharp point or a rounded ballpoint. A sharp point pierces the fabric and suits woven cloth. A ballpoint slides between the loops of a knit without cutting them. For knits and jersey a ballpoint is best, because it does not make new holes. If the pack does not say, test the needle somewhere that will not show.

The length of thread matters

Cut a thread about as long as your forearm. Thread that is too long tangles and knots, while thread that is too short runs out halfway along the seam. If in doubt, go a little shorter and start a new thread afterwards. Tie a small knot at the end, or put two stitches on top of each other at the start, so the thread holds.

Single or double thread

A single thread is thin and shows less, while a double thread is stronger. For an invisible seam in a thin knit, single thread is best. For a button or a seam that takes weight, double thread can make sense. Think about how much the repair needs to handle, and choose based on that rather than habit.

Keep a small selection ready

Two needles, one medium and one fine, and thread in black and white cover most things. Keep them in a small box so you know where they are. If you own many garments in one colour, an extra reel in that colour can be a good idea. A small, well chosen selection makes it easier to start when needed.

Frequently asked questions

What thread thickness is standard

Ordinary sewing thread suits almost every garment in a wardrobe. It is fine enough for knits and strong enough for seams, so you rarely need anything else for everyday repairs.

Can you use embroidery thread

Yes, for visible repairs where the heavier thread is part of the look. For seams that should not show, ordinary sewing thread is better because it is finer.

How many needles do you need

Two, one medium and one fine, cover most jobs. If you own many knitted garments, a ballpoint needle is a good addition to the small box.