Stretch in fabric, what it does to the fit

Short answer: Stretch gives room where the body needs it and pulls the fabric back afterwards. Without stretch, the cut has to fit precisely, because the fabric cannot give way on its own. That is the difference you feel when you reach, sit down or bend over.

Stretch gives movement

A fabric that gives follows the body when you reach and bend. It stretches over the shoulder when you lift an arm and across the back when you sit leaning forward. The fabric does not pull at you, and the garment stays in place. That is why many styles in women's bamboo tops have a little elastane in the fabric.

What elastane does in the fabric

Elastane is a thread that can stretch a long way and pull back again. It is worked into the fabric along with the other fibres, so the rest of the fabric feels the same as before. It does not take much, since the thread does its job even as a small part of the fabric. The result is a fabric that both gives and keeps its shape.

Recovery keeps the shape

Without elastane, fabric slowly gets bigger where it is stretched the most. Elbows, knees and seats are the typical places where it would otherwise start to bag. With elastane, the fabric pulls back when you straighten up again. You notice it most in clothes you wear for many hours at a time, see the blends in bamboo sweatwear.

Stretch lengthwise and widthwise

A knitted fabric almost always gives a little across its width, even without elastane. That comes from how the knit is built. Lengthwise it is firmer. Elastane adds stretch in both directions and helps the fabric recover. So two fabrics that look alike can behave quite differently when you pull on them or move in them.

Without stretch, the cut must be right

A fabric without elastane needs room built into the cut itself. When the fabric cannot give on its own, there has to be a bit of extra space at the shoulders, chest and sleeves so you can move freely. That is why pure viscose styles often sit a little looser and fall more freely, see for example bamboo sweatshirt for men.

Choosing a size by the fabric

If the fabric has stretch, you can pick the size that fits close without squeezing, because the fabric gives when you move. If it has no elastane, do not size down for a closer fit. You would lose the room the cut was built with. Read the fabric content on the product before you choose.

Washing that keeps the stretch

Elastane does not like high heat. Wash at 40 degrees and let the garment air dry, and the thread keeps its ability to pull back for longer. A hot tumble dryer wears it more than normal wear does. Turn garments inside out so the surface is also protected in the drum.

Which kind suits you

If you like clothes that follow the body and fit close, a fabric with stretch is the most comfortable choice. If you prefer clothes that hang loosely and drape softly, a fabric without elastane works well, as long as the cut gives room. There is no single right answer, it depends on how you want the garment to sit.

Frequently asked questions

How much elastane is enough

Two to five percent gives noticeable stretch without changing how the fabric feels. More than that is usually only used in clothes meant to fit very close to the body.

Can you feel the difference

Yes. Pull the fabric widthwise. If it springs straight back, there is elastane in it. If it stays a little stretched, there is none or only a very small amount.

Does fabric with elastane last longer

Not necessarily. The elastane thread ages over time, but the shape holds better meanwhile. Fabric without elastane has no thread to lose, but it can get bigger with wear.