Durability, how it is measured

Short answer: Abrasion resistance is measured by rubbing the fabric against a standard surface a set number of times under fixed pressure. The number of cycles needed before a hole appears is counted. The figure says something about the fabric, but not about the whole garment.

A rub test with a fixed count

The fabric is clamped into a machine and rubbed mechanically against a standard surface in a fixed pattern. The test runs until two threads break, and the number of cycles is the result. The higher the number, the more rubbing the fabric can take before it gives way. See men's bamboo joggers.

Why the test is standardised

A rub test only makes sense if it is done the same way every time. That is why the surface, the pressure and the movement are fixed in advance. Two fabrics can then be tested separately and still be compared. Change the pressure or the surface and the result changes too, and the number no longer tells you anything useful.

Pilling is a separate test

A separate test measures how quickly small balls of fibre form on the surface. A fabric can survive many cycles without a hole and still pill early. The two tests measure different things: one when the fabric breaks, the other when it starts to look worn. See the full men's range.

What the numbers do not tell you

The tests say nothing about seams, elastic or how the garment behaves after fifty washes. A top can have very tough fabric and still give way at a seam or lose shape at the waistband. The figure describes a small piece of fabric in a machine, not a whole garment in daily use. See men's bestsellers.

Seams and elastic wear first

In practice, the fabric itself rarely gives up first. Seams are pulled every time you move, and the elastic in waistbands and cuffs slowly loses its spring. It is worth looking at how the seams are sewn and whether they lie flat. Tight, even stitches usually last better than long, loose ones.

What you can check yourself

The figure is rarely stated on a product. But you can feel a lot yourself. A dense, even fabric made from long yarn is usually more abrasion resistant than a loose fabric with many free fibres on the surface. Hold the fabric up to the light and pull it gently. If it springs back easily, that is a good sign.

Washing affects wear

The washing machine is a kind of rub test in itself. Every wash rubs the fabric against the drum and against other clothes. Wash inside out, at a low temperature and with a mild detergent. Avoid washing with zips and hook and loop fasteners that can snag. The surface then takes longer to look tired.

Use the numbers as part of the picture

A rub test is useful because it gives an objective measure of the fabric. But it is only part of the picture. Fit, sewing, yarn and washing matter at least as much for how long you enjoy a garment. Look at the whole, and do not let a single number decide on its own.

Frequently asked questions

How is abrasion resistance tested

By rubbing the fabric against a standard surface under fixed pressure and counting cycles until a hole appears. Because the test is always the same, fabrics can be compared.

Can you see abrasion resistance on a product

The figure is rarely given. But a dense, even fabric made from long yarn is usually more durable, and you can often feel that when you hold it in your hand.

What wears first on a garment

Seams and elastic, not the fabric itself. That is why a rub test is only part of the picture when you want to judge how long a garment will last.