What a pattern size is

Short answer: A pattern size is a set of measurements the maker has chosen to build a garment from. It is not a body measurement but the garment's own measurements, with added ease so you can move freely.

A size is a choice

When a maker creates a size M, they choose a set of measurements for chest, waist, length and sleeves. There is no shared standard that everyone follows. So an M from one brand can be closer or looser than an M from another. The size is a starting point, not a fixed measurement.

Body measurements versus garment measurements

If your chest measures 96 centimetres, the garment's chest is typically 100 or more, because you need room to move. The difference is called ease. It applies to trousers too, where hips and thighs need to move freely when you walk and sit. See for example bamboo sweatpants for women.

Ease varies by type of garment

A close-fitting layer has little ease, while a loose style can have ten centimetres or more. The ease decides whether a garment fits close, relaxed or loose. That is why a bamboo sweatshirt for women and a top in the same size feel different, even though the label says the same size.

Knit gives

Knitted fabric stretches, and that affects how much ease is needed. A knit with a lot of give can fit close without feeling tight, while a firmer knit needs more room. So two garments with the same measurements can feel different. Feel how much the fabric gives when you judge the size.

How to use it

Find your body measurement, add the expected ease, and choose the size whose garment measurement is closest. If you want a looser fit, go one size up. See the size guide for the bamboo hoodie for women and always check whether the numbers are body or garment measurements.

How to measure yourself

Use a soft tape measure and measure over what you normally wear underneath. Measure your chest at the widest point, your waist at the narrowest and your hips at the widest. Keep the tape level and let it rest lightly without pulling. Write the numbers down so you have them next time you shop.

Measure a garment you like

The most precise method is to take a garment you like and measure it flat. Measure from side seam to side seam under the sleeve and multiply by two to get the circumference. Compare it with your body measurement, and you see how much ease you prefer. Use that number when choosing something new.

After washing

Measure the garment after its first wash if you want to be sure. Knit can draw in slightly, mostly in length, which affects the measurements you compare. Dry it flat or on a hanger so it keeps its shape. Then your measurements match the garment you actually wear.

Frequently asked questions

Are garment measurements always in the guide

Not always. Some guides show body measurements and others garment measurements, so read the heading before comparing with your own numbers.

How large is typical ease

Two to six centimetres on a close-fitting layer, more on a loose style. How much you prefer depends on how you like your clothes to sit.

Can you measure ease yourself

Yes, measure a garment you like and compare it with your own measurement. The difference is the ease you are comfortable with.